As we enter the climate decade, sustainability is becoming a prerequisite for operating within the fashion industry. To achieve long-term growth and demonstrate genuine environmental and societal commitments, it’s a matter of going green or going home. Sustainable fabric innovation is at the heart of the fashion landscape’s evolution, as it seeks to address the importance of the European Commission’s Circular Economy Action Plan.
To fulfill their climate commitments, brands will embrace the materials revolution through regenerative agriculture, bio-fabrication, biotechnology, and e-textiles. Scientific advancements have paved the way for sustainable substitutes that reimagine the possibilities of garments for both luxury and mass-market retailers.
In the years to come, we will see an increase in fabric innovation, from fruit fibers, algae kelp, and cactus, to collagen leather. The future has never been more promising. This S&S Decoded delves into the need for fabric innovation to address sustainability challenges, the industry’s current appetite, as well as the deconstruction of technical processes. It presents compelling case studies and a brief overview of how newly constructed textiles are advancing wearable technology to align with our digital lifestyles. Finally, it analyzes the future of this arena and the potential to trigger opportunities among the leading industry players to catalyze radical transformation. This article talks about fabric innovation, its process, and its future of it in the upcoming time.
sustainable fabric
Revolutionizing Fashion Sustainability: The Vital Role of Fabric Innovation
The fashion industry is in dire need of a materials revolution for several reasons. One of the main issues is the environmental impact of textile designs that do not embrace circularity. These designs contribute to problems such as microplastic shedding, harmful chemical leaks into freshwater sources, and the damaging nature of petroleum-based materials. Adopting cradle-to-cradle design through the creation of new fabrics is essential to address the unrecyclable nature of many man-made fabrics that cannot be repurposed or broken down effectively after the consumer use phase in their life cycle. Many materials are not compatible with recycling facilities, making it difficult to deconstruct the garment for future use.
Re-thinking material structures are also necessary to keep up with the evolution of fashion trends. Many fashion houses have integrated silky silhouettes and linen pieces into their collections in recent seasons. As we will see later, many of these new materials offer quality and unique textiles to create these designs.
In summary, the fashion industry can reduce its waste, water consumption, and energy-intensive manufacturing by inventing new luxurious fabrics and processes.
Exploring the State of Material Landscape in Fashion Today
There are three key drivers for fabric innovation in the fashion industry. The first is the shift in consumer sentiment towards conscious purchases, driven by a heightened awareness of the climate emergency and societal pitfalls in supply chains. Consumers are increasingly willing to spend more on sustainable brands and conduct in-depth research prior to checking out, encouraging the uptake of sustainable materials.
The second driver is the increased institutional regulation within the textiles space, such as the European Union’s Circular Economy Package which presents ambitious targets for recycling waste. Investments by these bodies have spurred further growth, such as the European Union’s financing of research into textile recycling through their Trash2Cash project. This involves 17 partners and 10 countries collaborating to review efficiency in recycling and separating mixed fibers.
The final major driver is the accelerated investment in research and development conducted at an industry-wide level by those seeking low-impact alternatives and methods to reinvent traditional design fibers. The 2020 State of Fashion Report by Business of Fashion and McKinsey provides data that shows a fundamental shift in the industry.
In summary, the drivers for fabric innovation are multifaceted and reflect changes in consumer behavior, institutional regulations, and industry-wide investment in research and development.
Fabric innovation processes
After examining the current direction of fabric innovation, it’s important to understand the main sustainable processes driving the development of these materials.
1. Biotechnology & Biofabrication
Biofabrication involves creating print fabrics that can be grown and cultivated in a few days, with minimal waste and water usage. They focus mainly on cellulose and silk fibers, using materials like hemp, food waste, fruit fibers, and sugar cane bark to mimic nature. Biofabrication allows for materials to be engineered and tailored to a specific design shape, reducing waste and textile offcuts produced in traditional manufacturing.
2. Regenerative Agriculture
Regenerative agriculture is a holistic farming approach that emphasizes soil health, low utilization growth, biodiversity, and climate change resilience. It helps preserve healthy land and reduce emissions within the product’s footprint, and is increasingly used in fashion collections. Regenerative fibers are crop fibers grown on farms using low-carbon and holistic practices designed to restore degraded land. These processes can help reduce agricultural waste and repurpose crop residue, creating value as seen with Orange Fibre.
One intriguing aspect of incorporating regenerative agriculture into fabric innovation is the potential for diverse materials based on localized and regional crop variations. This supports the UN’s 2030 Sustainable Development Goals, particularly Goal 2 and Goal 12, focusing on sustainable agriculture and consumption/production patterns.
The Future
Collaboration among stakeholders is crucial for the growth of fabric innovation. Fashion accelerators like Fashion for Good help science-based start-ups to gain momentum and scale up their ideas. Stella McCartney’s appointment as sustainability and special advisor to LVMH’s CEO holds promise for other fashion houses within the conglomerate’s portfolio. Vertical integration, partnerships, and institutional collaboration will be key trends in elevating sustainable fabric design.
The EU will offer funding to support sustainable bio-based textiles and circular business models, while in the US, the Defence Based Fibres and Textiles Manufacturing Innovation Institute is researching new technology for integrating LEDs, solar cells, and integrated circuits into fibers and yarns. Recycled materials will take center stage, but shoppers must be wary of greenwashing. There will be a shift towards sustainable trims, seams, buttons, zips, and other components of garments.
Conclusion
To ensure the widespread adoption of sustainable fabric innovation, fashion organizations need to invest in and educate stakeholders throughout the value chain. This collaborative effort should include science-based start-ups, regenerative farmers, fiber companies, manufacturers, and brands. With a shared commitment to sustainability, fabric innovation, and technology can scale up and benefit all market segments.
